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   Vol. 24 No. 7
Wednesday February 19, 2025
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Making The Alps Transparent

Alps Tunnels

     The passion of Europeans for street naming is old and intractable. As effective as the numbered streets and avenues of the USA could be, they remain far from our hearts. Europeans favour streets with names, even in America: we like Broadway, Lexington . . . even Wall Street, whilst we are instinctively puzzled by 5th Avenue’s insufficiency, even if it is fashionable and excellent, as only an avenue in NYC could be.
     Street naming has been a constant exercise for centuries in this continent, and still continues. For example, in Lewisham (UK) you may ask for a brand new street name for yourself and get it signed and sealed at the affordable price of 462 pounds. The passion for street naming is one of the few common traits that all Europeans have in common, over and above any other. Trafalgar Square in London echoes Les Champs Elysées in Paris, ideally extending their charms to the Nevsky Prospect in St. Petersburg, but we know that ‘all roads lead to Rome’, where Piazza Navona welcomes you with its almost oval embrace, thus evoking ancient Roman ship battles (naumachia).
     Every European city has a road, a street or a square to remember. Even the smallest alleyways have their names, which proudly connect you with personalities or events in history or geography. In my home town, Turin, significant names affixed at road corners evoke famous Romans like Julius Caesar, emperors like Trajan or even the locally relevant Madame Royale Christine Marie. We even have a big thoroughfare, still called Soviet Union Avenue, more than thirty years after the demise of the political entity it celebrates. Some have a different story to tell, though, not connected with power, empire and territory, but with transport, logistics and trade. This is the story of a tunnel that my friend Rosalba Graglia and I want to tell you today. Rosalba is a friend, a former school mate of mine, for years active as an independent journalist writing for a number of media, including Corriere della Sera and Bell’Italia.
     As in all stories, there is a plot, but there is also an exception. So let us start with the exception, as it manages to connect street names and transport infrastructure, which is the reason why we write this for the FT. Passenger transport being outside of FT’s interests and our common practice, we shall solely deal with aspects affecting the trade of goods.
Frejus Commemorative Stamp     SITO, the transport and logistics terminal of Turin has streets with numbers and no names and remains with the simplicity of 1st street, 2nd street etc. This inland port is the combined road-rail terminal that years ago was conceived to receive the cargo volumes generated by the high-speed rail connecting Italy and France: the Turin – Lyon 5th corridor, as was named at inception. More in general this rail connection was supposed to speed traffic between Paris, Lyon, Turin and Milan, and Venice for that matter, up to Budapest and Kiev, whilst also ensuring the long awaited high speed connection between Paris and Rome. To date, several decades after its debut as a concept, we are still many years away from its completion. High speed exists either sides of the Alps, not in between. So much for EU’s grand infrastructure plan, recently re-baptised “Connecting Europe Facility”! For the record, the Swiss have constructed three tunnels of similar impact in the meantime, with their own money and without making a buzz…
     As we know only too well, it could be even worse! For two years even the old rail line was discontinued due to a landslide and we were isolated again after one and half centuries. We do not need to build walls here in Europe: we may simply sit idle and let the mountains separate us and seal the borders. What an evolution!
     Getting back to SITO, the terminal with no street names, it was launched in 1980. “The Piedmont Region, implementing the regional transport plan to promote the reorganisation and rationalisation of freight transport, promoted the construction of public works of infrastructure for the handling of goods and for the interchange between road, rail and other transport modes . . . ” The publicly declared Company's purpose was “the promotion, planning, financing, and possibly direct and indirect construction of a multifunctional inland port in the areas adjacent to the Orbassano railway shunting yard . . .
SITO Terminal Construction     Since the first stone was laid in 1985, the terminal has been developed to include 3,000,000 sqm of surface with 400,000 sqm of equipped areas and services, 100,000 sqm of office space, 900,000 sqm of storage areas and 60,000 sqm of rail connected warehouses. 150 companies work in the compound employing 4000 FTE’s in logistics, all busy along 13 kilometres of rail tracks surrounded by 150,000 sqm of outdoor storage terminal and 100,000 sqm terminal area, catering for 4,55 million vehicles annually. In 2023 500 trains, with 16,430 wagons, 85% of these from intermodal traffic, as well as 30,000 containers were handled. We shall spare you greater details, diligently supplied by SITO, just to tell you that these figures would probably be considerably higher, had the Frejus base Tunnel been completed in time.
     In 1980 we had hopes to see the high speed rail to Paris before the year 2000 and today we still have hope to see it before we die. This is probably the biggest shortcoming in transport infrastructure, in EU’s development and transport policy that I have witnessed so far. And the disillusion is bitter, if you check the records and see what happened in this part of the world one and a half centuries ago. Quite the opposite was normal and exceptional at the same time, in fact!
     Let us then get back to the time when we were able to think, lay-out and construct the longest rail tunnel in the world, in record timing, too . . . But we shall also explain how this connects with our street naming passion: the names of those involved in the project and implementation of this grand plan are all affixed at the corners of our urban streets. Not all of them are so easy to find, tough. In Turin there are signs – and stories – that appear in ways you do not expect, in particular, since the genteel habit of affixing road signs bearing some kind of information gave way to the usage of plaques bearing nothing more than a name and surname (at times just the latter). So you have to go and find it out for yourself what it means.
Angelo Sismonda Street     That is the lot of the street named after Angelo Sismonda, an important and alas almost forgotten Piedmontese, who was born in Corneliano d’Alba in 1807, studied pharmacy in Turin, but never graduated, preferring physics, chemistry and above all mineralogy. For this reason, age 21, he moved to Paris, where he attended the lectures given by the famous mineralogists and geologists of the Sorbonne, the École des Mines and the Musée d’Histoire Naturelle. He then returned to Turin, became a professor at the local university and the director of the Museum of Geology and Mineralogy. In 1834 he made a scientific excursion to the Maritime Alps and the Apennines of Liguria, trying to create a geological map of Piedmont and Savoy, writing reports for the Academy of Sciences. His fame reached as far as the Court and in 1836 King Carlo Alberto entrusted him with teaching geology and mineralogy to his two sons. Sismonda’s geological map of Savoy, Piedmont and Liguria was published in 1862.


     In the meantime, Sismonda was already pursuing an even bigger scheme. In 1841, a Customs inspector from Bardonecchia, Giuseppe Medail, had presented Carlo Alberto with the project for a railway tunnel through the Alps, under Mont Cenis, to connect Piedmont with Savoy and the rest of Europe. A visionary project for the times, considered unfeasible by most geologists due to its length (about 12 km), but the king liked it. Carlo Alberto was instantly convinced: for a king who went down in history with the nickname of “Re Tentenna” i.e. the king hesitates, that was remarkable. In 1845 Sismonda began his surveys in the Alps and transformed a crazy idea into a feasibility plan that was approved twelve years later.
     The project was presented to the government of the Kingdom of Sardinia by Pietro Paleocapa, Minister of Public Works, on May 13th 1857 and was immediately adopted. In memory of this, just a block away from the Porta Nuova main station, Turin dedicated a very central square, completed by his statue, to Mr. Paleocapa, a great promoter of the railway development of Piedmont. Work for the tunnel began immediately and the three design engineers and directors of the works were officially called “Fréjus drillers”, as is readable on an inscription in Grandis St. The three drillers patented a new model of automatic pneumatic drill that allowed a 40 years’ job to be done in 13. This new drill was developed by Germain Sommeiller (works’ director) with Grandis and Grattoni, both engineers.


     The drill was actually not used directly for excavation, but to make the holes where the explosive could be placed for drilling and blasting. And here another key figure comes into play: Ascanio Sobrero, the discoverer of nitro-glycerine, which was used in these mountains. Sobrero also has his own street in town and, for good measure, even a plaque on one of the pillars of the porticoes of the Po St. close to the Academy of Medicine. The use of innovative machinery and the nitro-glycerine invented by Ascanio Sobrero were all elements of quick progress.
     Despite a stop in 1861 due to the transfer of Savoy from the Kingdom of Sardinia to France, the tunnel was completed ahead of schedule and was inaugurated on Christmas Day in 1870, no longer as national infrastructure, but as an international connection. The first train, the “Valigia delle Indie” i.e. the train which connected London to Brindisi, passed through the tunnel on January 5th 1872. When it was inaugurated, the Fréjus was the longest railway tunnel in the world and Turin became rapidly a record setting city in many areas of industry and production. Those were the days . . . Obviously the tunnel, which made it all possible, also deserves street naming: Fréjus St. in the Borgo San Paolo district carries its memory to this day.
     After a brilliant career and even a mineral compound labelled in his name, Angelo Sismonda, shaken by ill health and the death of his brother, died in Turin on December 30th 1878. It was said then that "Sismonda had made the mountains transparent". If you live in a place like Turin, which is surrounded 360° by the sight of high and awesome mountains, one day in your life you would wish a faraway horizon to appear by the magic of transparency, and imagine a world that exists nonetheless beyond the peaks, despite the limits imposed by our geography, and now even by politics.
     So where are we today? In a month or so, after nearly two years’ stop due to a big landslide on the other side, the trains to and from France will start running again through the tunnel, which we owe to Sismonda’s and his colleagues’ visionary obstinacy; we hope regularly, if not at high speed, the train will take us again to Paris!
     Sismonda, Sommeiller, Medail, Grattoni, Grandis, Sobrero, Paleocapa: perhaps no city in the world has engraved in its toponymical grid the names of all the architects of a large (and for that time unheard of) infrastructure. An epic undertaking was decisive for the economy of Piedmont and Italy as a whole, for its trade and development. We could argue that, without Sismonda, there would have been no FIAT Cinquecento, no Olivetti typewriters and no Nutella for the world to appreciate, as no entrepreneur would have dared to set up shop in a place which was rich with hydroelectricity, but isolated from the rest of world by the Alps.
     A monument in Piazza Statuto, the most esoteric square in Turin, inaugurated 135 years ago in 1890, celebrates the building of the tunnel, a monument studded with symbols that lend themselves to different interpretations: does it tell us the story of the defeat of the Titans, as it is supposed to do, or does it commemorate the 48 workers who lost their lives in the infrastructure building? Is it surmounted by a winged genie, like the one on the Mole Antonelliana (with a five-pointed star, which later disappeared) or is it Lucifer, signalling the gates of Hell?
     In any case, the names of the three engineers who built the tunnel are engraved on it: Sommeiller, Grattoni and Grandis.

Piazza Statuto

     In this unusual case, perhaps unique, the toponymical force of Turin has done more than just registering names at random. All the protagonists of this adventure have a dedicated street right in the area close to the railway line: Sommeiller Ave. overpasses the railway tracks which start from the nearby station of Porta Nuova, Grandis and Grattoni gave their name to neighbouring streets close to Porta Susa, which was in the meantime made Turin’s main station, yet indefinitely waiting for a high speed train that indeed should have arrived a long time ago.
     Sooner or later the high-speed rail will connect Paris to Rome: even if this happens more than thirty years after its due time, we would like to be there alive, and see it. Another 150 years from now, I wonder what kind of record will be kept of those women and men, who created fetters and difficulties, thus actively contributing to making it next to impossible to secure a future of development in trade and tourism for this part of Europe and its citizens.
Rosalba Graglia and Marco Sorgetti


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