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Welcome to
today’s FlyingTypers, as we close the chapter on this rather extended
year-end break and the beginning of 2025.
Let’s in the spirit of the New Year
party season recall a great gathering on several New Year’s Days
over the years as we travel back to a once-upon-a-time at JFK International
Airport in New York City.
Beginning in 1981 on New Year’s Day
at JFK International Airport, we attended one of the truly great airport
annual events, when a company called Air La Carte (ALC) was the address
for a festive and downright exuberant New Year’s Day Party.
All
the Chef’s and people responsible for the supplying most of the
food
available on every international flight transiting JFK gathered and shared
a tasting of their onboard offerings for an eager couple of hundred lucky
attendees with their families and other invited guests.
Amidst
a forest of ice sculptures (incl. Snow White & The Seven Dwarfs pictured
here) the Air La Carte kitchens presented foods of the world as a culinary
offering of the first rate. How long ago was this event held? Judging
by the little kid in the front of the picture here named Geoffrey II,
our son who was about three. In any case Geoffrey II today is 46, if you
wish to do the math.
We also recall the ALC operation was headquartered
in Building 146 near Hangar 17 and the Pan Am Jet Center at the airport.
We originally created this story in 1981
for Great Airports Kennedy, a 200 page words and picture book, with some
of the text written by Eleanor Jane Arend, the Matriarch of the Arend
family.
Today you have a hard time finding any trace
of ALC or for that matter many of the airlines it served, as time relentlessly
marches on.
The inclusion here of Greg & Paul Puolos—“The
Sky Deli Duo” is sweet, recalling their pioneering effort in airline
catering with their Chefs Orchid sandwiches once served in an on-board
shoebox with tankards of hot coffee, delivered from a ladder into the
DC3s at LaGuardia Airport and later to early fliers at JFK International,
but we shall get to their story in due time.
Although much has changed since 1981, the
memory of those wonderful New Year’s Day Air La Carte parties gave
us pause here in 2025 to look again at the world we knew 46 years ago
as we celebrate the New Year of 2025.
What
was cooking at JFK Airport 44 years ago? Everything and anything you can
think of. Croissants and cheesecakes, filets and flounder, salads and
sandwiches, even blueberry blintzes and bagels. A hundred mouth-watering
aromas assailed the traveler with a responsive nose, who might be arriving
or departing JFK’s big sprawl . . . Air La Carte, for instance,
was the in-flight food division of the service corporation known as ARA.
Elsewhere others served but in 1981 only three airlines maintained their
own commissaries at the airport, namely Pan American World Airways, United
Airlines and TWA.
Sky Chef, at that time was owned by American
Airlines, supplying other airlines as well as its own. A leading Kosher
food supplier was the firm of Borenstein in 1981, holding the exclusive
contract for servicing EL AL Israel Airlines and also providing Kosher
meals for many of the other carriers. Of course in 2025 all of that has
changed, gotten bigger or disappeared altogether.
So what’s changed? Certainly the elaborate
menus common today on many of business and first-class sections and the
“economy” snack trays in coach today make it seem more like
a million years ago, i.e. since the first unimaginative, unadorned and
often unwrapped cold sandwich was handed out at the departure gate of
the early galley-less aircraft. The shoebox to hold the sandwich with
maybe a piece of fruit and a cookie came later, with little additional
comfort.
New
York City can lay claim to a couple of very inventive airline catering
originals. Now we get to the two brothers, Paul and Gregory Poulos, who
created a minor sensation when they introduced a “deluxe”
club sandwich topped with a tiny, real orchid, and packed in a see-through
box. Their company called itself Chef’s Orchid and post-World War
II it began over at LaGuardia and quickly mushroomed from three employees
delivering sandwiches and vessels filled with Coffee and Tea to waiting
DC3s. By 1948 Chefs Orchid was a very busy 300 people unit, serving most
all the international airlines operating at Idlewild (now JFK) Airport.
Their idea was widely copied, but not before Ogden Foods bought the Poulos
company. However, the Brothers were not finished. They simply could not
get the airport out of their system and opened what became the most famous
air cargo eatery at JFK branded Sky Deli in Building 110. (Fifty years
ago, when we began publishing Air Cargo News, now Flying Typers, the Poulos
Brothers kindly allowed us to put up our first cargo area newspaper stand
where we distributed thousands of copies of our Air Cargo News from start
up in 1975 until Sky Deli closed during the 1990s).
Air La Carte in 1981 was the outstanding
leader at John F. Kennedy Airport in the number of accounts it supplied.
The company served 55 carriers, with both domestic and foreign operators
represented. ALC began as Lakewood Foods in 1953 and came to JFK in 1954
moving into a red brick two-story building known as Building 146 in 1962.
Air La Carte’s unusual ratio of success was attributed, in good
part, to the impact of an expert managerial stuff working with the proficient,
flexible production department. Its head chef George Ritter was a European-trained
professional, whose background included the invaluable experience of a
period as manager in charge of all dining room operations for the United
Nations.
The airlines, it should be noted, had some
hands on people back in the day turning out outstanding meals at the airport.
For example, Air India and Pakistan International Airlines, both served
by Air La Carte operated with in-house Indian and Pakistani chefs, whose
expertise was reflected in the hot curries and vegetarian dishes offered
on board as an alternative choice to the regular fare. Sabena Belgian
World Airlines had a Belgian chef at its command, and there was an Italian
chef for Alitalia.
Eleanor Jane Arend
Although all of it seems so long ago
and far away, the memory of those days and the wonderful ALC Party followed
by the always bright early January slap-in-the-face of cold air outside
of Building 146 lives on. Here also, as the sun faded and the party was
over, was the never to be forgotten view of a half dozen Pan Am 747s,
nose to tail corralled together outside of Hangar 17.
Happy New Year and the best of the best
to all our readers in 2025.
GDA |